New York's Mexican food, long overshadowed by other cities', is finally earning acclaim. A wave of taquerias and regional specialists is showcasing the depth of the cuisine, from Oaxacan moles to Baja-style seafood, far beyond the generic platter.

Much of the energy comes from immigrant cooks bringing specific regional traditions to the city's neighborhoods. The fictional taqueria La Milpa in Sunset Park has drawn critical raves for tacos and tamales rooted in family recipes from Puebla.

Food writers say New York's Mexican scene has quietly become one of its most exciting, propelled by a large and growing community. For diners, it means the city's tacos are better, and more varied, than ever before.