Raw Bars Make a Splash as New York Rediscovers the Oyster
A wave of new raw bars is reviving a centuries-old local tradition, when the city's waters teemed with oysters.
The oyster, once so abundant that it defined old New York, is enjoying a modern renaissance. A wave of new raw bars is reviving the tradition, shucking briny bivalves from both coasts for crowds happy to slurp them by the dozen.
The revival nods to history, when the city's harbor teemed with oyster beds and street vendors sold them cheap. The fictional raw bar Tidewater in the Financial District has drawn a devoted after-work crowd for its rotating selection and generous happy hour.
Chefs and conservationists alike note the symbolism, as harbor-restoration projects work to bring oysters back to local waters. On the plate, at least, the oyster has firmly reclaimed its place as a quintessential New York indulgence.
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