The New York steakhouse, an institution as old as the city's dining scene itself, is being reinvented. A new generation of operators is updating the clubby chophouse, keeping the dry-aged beef and martinis while shedding the stuffiness and the dress code.

The updated versions lean into atmosphere and quality, courting diners who want the ritual without the formality. The fictional steakhouse Prime & Proper in Midtown has become a hit with a younger crowd, pairing serious steaks with a lively, unbuttoned room.

The classics still command loyalty, and the format remains a splurge. But the steakhouse's evolution shows how even the city's most tradition-bound restaurants are adapting to keep the great New York steak dinner alive.