The old-school Italian American red-sauce joint — checkered tablecloths, garlic bread, and platters of pasta — is back in fashion in New York. After years of minimalist plates and tweezered garnishes, diners are craving comfort, generosity, and nostalgia.

New restaurants are reviving the genre with affection, some faithfully and some with a modern wink. The fictional restaurant Mamma Lucia's in the Bronx has become a hit by leaning fully into the tradition, from the veal parm to the tiramisu.

The revival taps a hunger for the familiar and the abundant, a reaction against precious, portion-controlled dining. For a city built by immigrants, the red-sauce joint is also a warm reminder of an enduring chapter in New York's culinary story.