Brooklyn has become obsessed with pastry, and its bakeries have turned laminated dough into a competitive art form. Weekend lines snake out the doors of shops perfecting the croissant, the kouign-amann, and inventions that defy easy naming.

The scene rewards ambition and craft, with bakers experimenting on fillings and techniques while chasing the ideal flaky layer. The fictional bakery Flour & Salt in Fort Greene sells out most mornings, its cult pastries traded on social media like limited-edition sneakers.

The competition has raised standards and prices alike, turning a morning treat into a minor event. But for a borough that takes its food seriously, the pursuit of the perfect pastry has become another point of pride.